
What for Vladimir Balyberdin invented Elbrus Races in the end of 80s?
Of course, not for skyrunning “splinter” dabbed into Russian mountaineering. (we do not mean that real skyrunning, which has been managed by Andrew Puchinin and Gleb Sokolov, with great seven-thousanders speed climbs. But the another one, which was born in Europe and means running at low altitude in the mountain terrain.
All reasonable people understood that skyrunning isn’t the mountaineering. Whatever the new theorists composed in Russia, mountain speed climbs came up with climbers, and they haven’t seen such competitions in means "for all".
"All" can deal with skyrunning in ISF style – in shorts and shoes in the not so extreme mountain area. Elbrus does not match any of skyrunning rules nor the concepts, in spite the skyrunning itself is a good sport. Elbrus is an exception. And promotion of Mount Elbrus as an object for the “skyrunning for all” can lead to very bad consequences.
Because ther is Mount Elbrus. And there's another Elbrus. Where neither the marshals nor the marked trail could guarantee safe climb...
Elbrus is the mountain with a bad character.
Unfortunately, in Russia this peak become too popular and too highly branded.
Novice climbers put Elbrus as number one in the achivement list. But the peak has the height, and the "temper".
But the majority want to climb it "quickly", and don’t try themselves at lower edge. And someone just gotta go to the highest point of Europe. And someone, having read a lot in the Internet, decided that it is the mountain, which you need first and where you can start you climbing experience. This is a great fallacy.
Balyderdin was the first Russian mountain climber who climbed Mount Everest and K2. It means that he was an extra-class high-altitude mountaineer. And he perfectly understood that with an altitude, even if it is the height of Mount Elbrus, need to be with respect and accuracy. If you're lucky with the weather, you take a cute, friendly, hospitable Elbrus, see beautiful sun rise and chic panoramas, and meet only altitude difficulty. But if the Mount will turn its other side to you... don't hope that there are hundreds of people, because in some circumstances it will not help you.
Not only a lot of newcomers had been lost there, but also the most experienced climbers. Suffice it to recall the death of Alexander Mikhailov, honored trainer, Master of sports in mountaineering, who trained many mountaineering champions in Russia/USSR ...He just disappeared on the mountain while climbing in May day, just in front of his friends, including his students, who were not the newcomers in mountaineering...
A strong wind gust – and how marked trail can help you? After all, many climbers survived on Elbrus the classic moments of weightlessness -"when the wind lifted them over the ground, and then was flinging back”.
Elbrus speed climbing competition is not a walk to the top, this is a very big, serious load. International Elbrus Race conceived as a competition of the most powerful athletes, pleasant communication and (probably most importantly) testing of your own forces and capabilities. It's a way to push the boundaries for youself, understand the workings of your body in terms of altitude. If you are dreaming of this height, really working on race, you may feel your boundaries in the upcoming high-altitude climbing. But you have to be ready for this test.
Elbrus is only the first step to an altitude. You must be able to climb it. And this should be done with the stock of skills.
If you think you need to try your boundaries – welcome to our competitions. It does not require any level or rank. You need the climbing experience. Good physical shape. Respect to the Mount. (because Elbrus is more stronger than you)
But newcomers need to hire the guide, and to climb not in the speed.
The September is the best season for the climbs and the best for the such competitions.
But even this soft season was not without surprises. In the VII International Elbrus Race in 10-30 a.m., judges who registered the finish on Elbrus West top, were forced to ask to close the route on the top for athletes, because the conditions have turned to extremely bad. (At 6 a.m. when the competition began, the weather was absolutely wonderful: the nice clear morning!)
After the first finishers in the 9-28 and 9-31 Anton Proshenko and Aggey Skopin, Roman Gubanov (who run from Azau) topped out the West Elbrus in half past ten. Just after him Rafael Ramazanov from Ossetia (started from Barrels) reached the top. Then the bad weather forced the judges and participants began a quick descent to the col.
And suddenly Roman have noticed the exhausted man who sat lonely near the trail (he was not the competition participant). Roman helped him stand back on their feet. The guys managed to pull the man to the col. Where one of our female athletes Olga Rzhavskaya did him the injection. Olga is the medic from Emergency Rescue Service, she had a personal first aid kit (plus the medical kits in every judges point). And further the judges and participants together – helped the guy to descend until reached the ski-run grooming machines. All were safe and sound.
But the Mount have harshly recalled: you have to keep in mind: you are on Elbrus!
VIII International Elbrus Race will held September, 20, 2013.