Vladimir Balyberdin, aka "Bal"...

Vladimir Balyberdin is a climber hardly known by World climbing society. As confirmation of the fact I brought together nearly all links from English speaking web, I was able to find:

From other hand everyone who was happy to meet "Bal" (that was his nick name) know for sure - he was outstanding climber and personality.

Balyberdin Vladimir Sergeevich (1949-1994).

Born in Altai, then moved to Leningrad - graduated from LEIS of Bonch-Bruevich. He worked as a senior engineer at the Central Research Institute of the Navy, from 1980 - instructor of climbing at the Leningrad City Council DSO "Spartak" (ie, became a professional climber - approx. Ed.). One of the most talented Soviet climbers of new generation and the only in the history of USSR sport  Candidate to Master of Sport of  Soviet Union, who directly (bypassing the rank Master of Sport) have got the title: ZMS )Honored Master of Sport - 08.06.1982 (№ 2828), MSMK (internatiobal Master of Sport - 31.12.1982 (№ 7937).

At 6 am on May 4 V. Balyberdin and his climbing mate - Edward Myslovsky (45 years, MS - 1966, MSMK - 1968) came to the summit and at 14:30 Balyberdin first in the USSR reached the summit of Mount Everest and asked by the radio: "All the way going down ... what should I do next?"

"2 Russians Climb Everest AP Published: May 5, 1982: Eduard Myslovsky and Vladimir Balyberdin today became the first Russians to climb Mount Everest, the Nepalese Tourism Ministry announced. Mr. Myslovsky, 44 years old, of Moscow and Mr. Balyberdin, 32, of Leningrad reached the top of the 29,028-foot-high peak this afternoon and stayed 30 minutes before beginning their descent, the ministry said". (see link http://www.nytimes.com/1982/05/05/world/2-russians-climb-everest.html)

For this ascent Balyberdin was awarded the Order of Lenin "(05/07/1982). According to a survey of sports journalists of the ten best athletes of the Soviet Union in 1982 for the first time in the history of Soviet sport was named Mountaineer - Vladimir Balyberdin.

His climbing CV:

First ascent - 05.05.1969 at alpiniade SWD "Petrel" (in section LEIS, coach Rapoport Fiver Abramovich).

1977 - won first place in mountaineering biathlon (cross-country skiing and slalom). These competitions were held for the last time - he had ...!
1978 - Medal "Rescue team member", CMS climbing (Candidate to master of Sport)
1982 - "Snow Leopard".

Championship of USSR:

• 1981 - 1 place, altitude-technical class: P. Communism in the center of SW Art. Pp, 6 hands. Vic. Solonnikov
• 1984 - 3 place, Ice class: Jets-Oguz, 5b, Balyberdin + 3
• 1985 - 2 place, technical class: Cold Wall (Yazgulem) centered in the art., 6b, PP, hands
• 1986 - 3 altitude-technical class: p Engels wells sev.vost Art., 6, pp, Balyberdin + 7

Winter climbs:

• 1984 - Shkhelda from W to B with the rise in the peak of C Aristova wall, PP, 5b, hands
• 1986 - n. Communism (by Borodkin), with the cold overnight stay at 6500 m, 5a c / tr., In the Himalayan collection
• 1988 - Section Lenin on W gr., 5a, hands.
• 1990 - n. Victory to 7050 m (with slope - on Letavetu (on Abalakov!-Hill specify) hands.

The most significant ascent:

• 1974 - Kamensk-Uralsky for Yu counter., 5a, Ignatiev, NM + 3
• 1976 - Pioneer (Bezengi), 5b, Kolchin Al., Balyberdin V., Vostrov, Biryulin Yu; Ullu-Auz-bashi from the North, 5a, hands. Balyberdin + 3; Festival - Elephant (Tian Shan, Karakol), 5b, Kolchin Al. + 7 (and editor)
• 1977 - Pamir-Alai, Kok-su: Tekelik SE gr. 5a, MF, Kolchin AA + 5; Ossonoli Yu Yu station on fire. 5b, ne, in the deuce with Kolchin al.; Tooth Begich on in konterforsu, 5a, ne, in the deuce with Andreev G. (editor); Tekelik on CD gr., 5a, Kolchin + 4; Traverse: Tooth Begich (for SE style). - 5b, Balyberdin V., Andreev, G. (editor) B. Silin, Razumov Yuri
• 1978 - Zamin Karor on W sf. W art. (Lavrukhina), 5b, Cherevko + 3, n. communism in the ribs, 5b, Afanasiev + 3.
• 1979 - n. Revolution, 6 c / tr., Chunovkina G. + 7.
• 1980 - PE Korjenevskaya for Yu ridge, 5a; traverse n. Communism from P - n "6950", 5b. 1981 - Section Communism in the center of SW wall, 6, Solonnikov Vic. + 7; horseman on edge (for sickle), 5b, Balyberdin V. + 3; Tupolev SW ridge, 5a, Dzbina V. + 3; Peak Arg, 5b, (PP), the deuce with Glushko V.; Peak Argue on the left bastion with Art. 5b, in the deuce with Glushkov
• 1982 - Everest SW Wall, pp.
• 1984 - Revolution item in the center of SW art., 5b, PP, V. Balyberdin + 4., N. Revolution of SW Art. (By Nekrasov), 6, Razumov Yu + 3, n. newspaper "Komsomolets in Kyrgyzstan" by the CA walls, 5b, PP, Balyberdin + 3.
• 1985 - The Marquee (Tien Shan), NW Art. Pp, 6, Balyberdin + 5; tent in the center of NW Wall, 6, pp, Balyberdin V. + 7; Clause "5290" (usch. Havrez Dora) on NE Buttress, 5b, in the deuce with Shustrova N.; cold wall in the center of the art., 6, pp, Balyberdin + 7 (2 place in the championship of the USSR).
• 1986 - Zamin Karor SW by W sf art. 5b, Razumov Yu + 3; Zamin Karor 1-I Zap. NW Art., 6, Razumov Yu + 3, n. Engels center in Art., 6, Balyberdin + 5; forth Engels wells Yu Art., 6, pp, Balyberdin + 7.
• 1987 - The Lenin on W gr., 5a, winter hands., N. From Communism to gr., 5b, hands.; Khan Tengri in the center of the art., 6, pp, Shustrov N. + 5; Khan-Tengri on W gr., 5b, hands., n. Victory W gr., 5b, Balyberdin + 4.
• 1988 - Lenin forth through the rocks Lipkin, 5a, hands., N. In a victory lane. Chontoru, 5b, hands.; Traverse: n. Victory - n. The military surveyors, 6b, hands. One group (consisting of the Himalayan collection).
• 1989 - 2-nd Soviet Himalaya Expedition: April 15 - in the group B. Hrischatogo up (like the whole group - without oxygen) by the average peak of Kanchenjunga (8478 m.), pp. Then - May 1-2 in group B. Elagina passed successively South (8491 m), medium (8478 m), Home (8586 m) and West (8505 m) peaks, pp. Over the ascent was awarded the Order of Friendship of Peoples ".
• 1990 - Winter: n. Victory (by Letavetu) Balyberdin + 3, n. Eug. Korjenevskaya for Yu gr. from the glacier Moskvina, 5b, Balyberdin + 5; n. communism with the slope of the glacier, and Walter B. Barrier, 5a, Balyberdin + 5.
• 1991 - October 7: Everest South seat (without oxygen) - was the leader of the expedition of the St. Petersburg (own) cooperative "Mountaineer".
• 1992 - Chogori (K-2 on the edge Abrutskogo) hands. Russian-American expedition. Ascent is committed by a group consisting of: Balyberdin, Nikiforov, Kopeika G. As a result Balyberdin became the first climber in the USSR, inherited the three highest peaks in the world.

Volodya died in his home town, on the night of July 22, 1994 (the day of the Goodwill Games, where he was invited). His "Volga" came under the wheels of the huge Finnish trailer, drove to the red light. After his death has come to understand the true value of this man. Behind it all its fame as a national hero of Russia. Volodya was buried before the main entrance to the southern cemetery. On the eve of the New, 2001, the Sport Committee has identified the top 20 athletes of the twentieth century. Their names are the pride of the world, the Soviet and Russian sports - among them the first was named Vladimir Balyberdin (St. Petersburg Gazette, № 238, 28.12.2000). Volodya has left three daughters ... Balyberdin author of several publications: the book "Everest 82" (Wiley, FIS) - the article "Wrong ascent"; in the book "Everest, south-western wall" (Lenizdat, 1984) - Article "On very-very top ", in the Leningrad journal Aurora» (№ 3, 1983) - article "8848", in the newspaper "Evening Petersburg" (10/05/1992) - Note: "Between sky and earth. About him: Tamm. "In memory of Vladimir Balyberdin" in the Journal. World Travel », № 9-12, for 1994

(Based on Alexander Kolchin and Herman Andreev site www.alpklubspb.ru with permission from G. Andreev)